Lens
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SAL-35F14G Sony 35mm F/1.4
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Box contents
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Front and rear caps, hood, soft case and users manual.
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Cost
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$1498 retail
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Build quality
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Very good
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Additional information
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Re-badged and slightly upgraded Minolta lens from the late 1990s. Optical design dates back to the late 80s.
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Specifications below |
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Optical configuration
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10 elements in 8 groups
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Angle of view
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63° (full frame) 42° (APS-C)
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Aperture
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9 blades, circular
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Full frame and APS-C
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Yes, made for full frame. APS-C equivalent, 52mm
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Depth of field and focus scales?
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Yes
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Minimum focus, image plane to subject
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12″ (305mm)
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Minimum focus, end of lens barrel to subject
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7″ (178mm)
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Hard stop at infinity focus?
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Yes
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Length changes when focusing?
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No
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Focus ring turns in AF?
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No
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Filter size
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55mm
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Filter ring rotates?
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No
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Distance encoder?
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Yes
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Max magnification
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0.20x
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Min. F/stop
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F/22
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Sony teleconverter compatible?
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No
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Dimensions W x L (my measurements)
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2.72″ x 3.01″ 69mm x 76.5mm. Focus hold button protrusion adds 2.5mm to maximum width, not listed.
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Maximum extended length (my measurements)
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3.01″ (76.5mm)
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Weight bare (my scale)
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17.7oz (502g) 18.6oz (526g) with caps
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Box contents with no box |
Front on A700 |
Backside |
Side shot |
MTF chart |
X-ray view, Sony screen grab. |
The Sony 35mm F/1.4 G is a compact, heavy, well-built, and expensive lens aimed at Photojournalists and people who shoot primarily in hand-held, available light conditions, such as street scenes at night or indoors. Build quality is very good. It has a course spatter paint finish unlike any other Sony or Minolta lens I’ve seen, which leads me to believe at least part of it is built at a different plant from the rest of the Sony lenses. It has a focus distance window with ft and m in different colors along with DOF hash marks, plus a handy focus hold button, which can be changed to DOF on select camera bodies. The focus ring is covered in rubber and wide enough for easy manipulating. The lens is made in Japan. To give you and idea as to the size of the lens, it’s about the same and weight as the Sony CZ 16-80mm F/3.5-4.5. One item to mention about interior build is a glass-molded aspherical element, which helps control Coma in the corners.
Sun in shot, F/5.6
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Sun centered, F/5.6 |
Bokeh, F/1.4
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Bokeh, F/2
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Bokeh, F/2.8
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Bokeh, F/4
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Foreground bokeh, F/1.4
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Foreground bokeh, F/4
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When the sun is in the frame at an angle, some ghosting shows up, mostly blue/magenta blobs, seen in the lower right of the first image. When the sun is centered, everything is fine. Overall, flare and ghosting are on par with the Sony 50mm F/1.4 lens. The included hood is typical in the fact that it doesn’t work very well, I use my hand to shield the sun when possible.
Bokeh is a little harsh at F/1.4, but smooths out nicely at F/2 and beyond. Background blur (middle rows) is much more pleasing than foreground blur, as you can see in the last row.
Coma samples below.
F/1.4
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F/2.0
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Coma is moderate at F/1.4, but goes away quickly with the cropped sensor camera.
Example of veiling haze cropped from the center.
F/1.4
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F/1.6
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F/1.7
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F/2.0
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Barrel distortion. |
Distortion is almost flat, and barely noticeable in real shots. For those of you who look at your images with a grid overlay, there is slight barrel distortion.
Light fall-off.
F/1.4
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F/2.0
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I wonder how sharp the corners are?
F/1.4
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F/1.4 from center
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F/2.0
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F/2.8
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F/4.0
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F/5.6
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F/8
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F/11
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These crops are from the extreme bottom left corner. Things look fuzzy here at F/1.4, but it’s dumb to shoot like this is broad daylight. The corners sharpen up gradually to F/5.6. I threw in a center crop from F/1.4 for comparison.
How sharp are the centers if the image is enlarged to a staggering size?
F/1.4 | |
F/2.0 | |
F/2.8
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F/4
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F/5.6
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F/8
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F/11
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Full frame results using the Sony A900 below.
Check out the differences when using a film or full frame camera below. I’m only pointing out the noticeable issues as compared to the APS-C bodies, so if I don’t show it here, the results are not significantly different enough to warrant posting an additional set of images in this section.
Light fall-off
Light fall-off is worse than the APS-C crops shown earlier. At F/1.4 it’s heavy, and noticeable in real shots, but don’t shoot at this aperture in daylight.
Full image from A900 below.
The dark corners are noticeable here, but this is the wrong thing to do with a F/1.4 aperture. Save the fast part of the lens for low-light shots where this kind of stuff isn’t noticeable.
Corner samples next.
The corners are softer than the APS-C crops show, but not by much, F/5.6 looks good judging by the center shot right next to it. The corner shots and the center shot look different because of the way the corners stretch the image, it’s not because I was at a different location etc. The exposure differences are from light fall-off.
There’s slightly more barrel distortion using the full frame A900 than an APS-C camera, though I wouldn’t worry about this small amount at all.
Coma results with full frame.
This is coma on the A900. At F/1.4 it’s a little strong, but better than the Sony 50mm F/1.4, most likely due to the use of an aspheric element in the 35mm F/1.4. One stop down at F/2 things looked the same, but at F/2.8 there’s not much of a problem. Don’t try and make direct comparisons to the crops above and the APS-C crops at the top of the page as they were taken at different distances and slightly different angles.
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For better wide open performance, and less cost, check out the manual Rokinon 35mm F/1.4 lens, it’s really good!
APS-C users; get the much better performing Sony DT 35/1.8 reviewed here.