Lens
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SAL-28F28 Sony 28mm F/2.8
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Box contents
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Front and rear caps, and a users manual.
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Cost
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$270 retail Discontinued in 2011
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Build quality
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Very good
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Additional information
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Has neat built-in hood, 3/8″ (9mm) deep fully extended, but it does no good
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Specifications below |
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Optical configuration
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5 elements in 5 groups
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Angle of view
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75° full frame, 50° APS-C.
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Aperture
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7 blades, straight
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Full frame and APS-C
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Yes, made for full frame. APS-C equivalent, 42mm
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Depth of field and focus scales?
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Yes and yes
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Minimum focus, image plane to subject
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12″ (310mm)
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Minimum focus, end of lens barrel to subject
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7.9″ (200mm)
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Hard stop at infinity focus?
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Yes
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Length changes when focusing?
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Yes
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Focus ring turns in AF?
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Yes
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Filter size
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49mm
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Filter ring rotates?
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No
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Distance encoder?
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No
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Max magnification
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0.13x
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Min. F/stop
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F/22
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Sony teleconverter compatible?
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No
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Dimensions W x L (my measurements)
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2.6″ x 1.7″ 66mm x 43mm
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Maximum extended length (my measurements)
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1.8″ (46mm), add 3/8″ (9mm) for hood extension.
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Weight bare (my scale)
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6.6oz (187g) 7.4oz (209g) with caps
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Front with hood retracted |
Box and lens |
Front with hood extended |
Backside |
Side shot |
Sony X-ray view and MTF chart |
The Sony 28mm F/2.8 is a compact lens, about as small as you’re going to get with Sony. Build quality is very good. It has a satin black finish with rubber inserts around most of the circumference. It has a focus distance window with ft and m in different colors along with DOF hash marks. The lens says “Japan” so I’m assuming it’s made in Japan. This lens has a short focus throw, As you can imagine it focuses very quickly and very accurately using the A700. There’s a tiny bit of slop on the focus ring if you wiggle it by hand when engaged, and none in actual MF use. Manually, the ring is easy to manipulate with a finger and thumb. Less than a quarter turn gets you from close focus to infinity. The focus ring turns in auto-focus mode.
Sun centered, F/5.6
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Sun in shot, F/5.6
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Bokeh, F/2.8
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Bokeh, F/4
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Coma, F/2.8
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Coma, F/4
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The top left shot shows how the lens handles the sun when it’s smack dab in the middle of the image, and it does a good job, no rings or color blobs. The right shot shows the sun at an angle, and it controls ghosts about average for a wide angle lens. Sun blow out can be an issue, but solve this by using your hand to block light. The lens has a built in hood, (marketing gimmick) that won’t help when the sun is just out of the frame.
The middle crops are bokeh at F/2.8, and F/4. I like the look of F/4, which is pretty smooth, the wide open F/2.8 crop is too busy and harsh for me.
The last row are the results of coma, which don’t look too bad. It’s better than the Minolta 24mm F/2.8 shots. The (corner cropped) points of light at F/2.8 are supposed to look like they do at F/4 in this example. This wouldn’t really show up in a normal picture, so don’t worry about it.
Distortion below.
Barrel distortion. |
Distortion is very light, and corrects easily with standard lens correction tools in your photo imaging software.
Light fall-off.
F/2.8
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F/4
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Shot at F/2.8, no adjustments. Light fall-off in real images is not noticeable on a cropped sensor camera.
I wonder how sharp the corners are?
F/2.8
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F/4.0
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F/5.6
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F/8
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These crops are from the extreme bottom left corner. Things look ok here at F/2.8, but the corners definitely respond to stopping down. F/4 is a little better, and I think the sharpest comes at F/5.6 or possibly F/8. It’s obviously not going to matter after F/5.6.
How sharp are the centers if the image is enlarged to a staggering size?
F/2.8
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F/4.0
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F/5.6
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F/8
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The center sample crops above show F/2.8 and F/4 to be very similar is sharpness, though it appears the lens is at its sharpest at F/4.0-5.6. There isn’t a whole lot of change as you can ascertain, and it’s only noticeable cropped and displayed side-by-side. I think the Sony 28mm F/2.8 is very similar to the Minolta version, but maybe a hair sharper at F/4. I’d say that’s probably caused by sample variations as one might expect. I’ve heard people chatter about this lens being very soft at F/2.8, but I don’t see an issue. I wouldn’t be afraid to shoot at F/2.8 with this lens for a paying job, but see my final thoughts below.
Full frame results using the Sony A900 below.
Check out the differences when using a film or full frame camera below. I’m only pointing out the noticeable issues as compared to the APS-C bodies, so if I don’t show it here, the results are not significantly different enough to warrant posting an additional set of images in this section.
Light fall-off
Light fall-off is worse than the APS-C crops shown earlier. At F/2.8 it’s heavy, and noticeable in real shots, but one stop down and things change dramatically for the better. It doesn’t get much better by stopping down past F/4.
Full image from A900 below.
The dark corners are noticeable here, but not bad, it all depends on subject placement and background. This shot was F2.8, ISO 200, 1/4000sec. As always, don’t shoot normal daylight scenes at F/2.8.
Corner samples next.
The corners are softer than the APS-C crops show, by about one stop. Don’t concern yourself with this as normal daylight shots would be F/5.6 or smaller, and low light shots would probably hide soft corners depending on subject matter. The corners are their absolute best at F/11, but hardly noticeable from the F/8 crops. The exposure differences are from light fall-off.
Distortion.
There is slightly more barrel distortion for full frame cameras, but I’d still consider it light to moderate.
Coma results with full frame.
This is coma on the A900. It’s mild to moderate at F/2.8, but clears up for the most part at F/4. I wouldn’t be afraid to shoot night time street scenes at F/2.8, but make sure you try and keep points of light away from the corners of the frame. At F/4 coma is barely noticeable. Keep in mind the samples above are 100% cropped portions of the original image, if you printed the whole image out as you might see it on your computer screen would measure 65″ (1.9m) wide using the A900.
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